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Greenwich Bazzar
Rare Vintage Gillott & Co. Detachable Pendant Ruby and Platinum Necklace
Rare Vintage Gillott & Co. Detachable Pendant Ruby and Platinum Necklace
Regular price
$38,880.00 USD
Regular price
Sale price
$38,880.00 USD
Quantity
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This is an amazing vintage piece, a Gillott & Co. cabochon ruby detachable pendant that attaches to an amazing geometric Art Deco diamond necklace. There are alternate rectangular and square links, giving the piece more depth and intricacy. Each of the three links are extremely unique, starting from the pendant, the first style is a square link with open cut circle, and little pave set diamonds in the corners. The next one is a beautiful open work rectangle, giving the illusion that the diamond is a huge square cut. It is rotated, and extremely well defined and pops out on the piece. Between the squares are pave set diamonds, and flanking the rectangle are two other sets of diamonds, giving the piece more flexibility and movement. The final link, a square with round brilliant and open work design to make it look like a much larger cushion cut. This piece is absolutely divine and pops out solely based on its links. The open work design allows for the diamonds to look large, and add a large amount of texture and complexity that cannot be replicated in modern jewelry.
At the center hangs a triangular plaque headed by a bezel set old mine cut diamond above a massive diamond-set frame (even between the cabochons!), opening below into a graduated cluster of nine cabochon rubies arranged in a stylized fan (five stones across the shoulder, three beneath, tapering to a single point stone) within a pierced, diamond bordered gallery with scrolled shoulders. The plaque hinges free of the two end links, so the pendant converts from necklace centerpiece to a stand alone brooch. On the back of the pendant is "Gillot & Co", and a swooshing design is engraved on the back for an extra layer detail.
Gillot & Co. was a New York retail jewelry house founded by Paul Gillot, a Paris-trained designer who arrived in New York in 1902 to work for Marcus & Co., one of the city's leading jewelers. He returned to France to serve during WWI, then came back to Marcus, incorporating Gillot & Co. in 1916 with a shop at 546 Fifth Avenue. Like most Fifth Avenue houses of the period, Gillot & Co. was a retailer rather than a manufacturer: pieces were commissioned from independent workshops and sold under the Gillot name. The firm moved several times along Fifth Avenue through the 1920s and 30s, and its output spans Belle Epoque and Art Deco styles.
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